An isolated camp by the Goulburn River |
I'm typing this from our camp beside
the Goulburn River in New South Wales – in between having a cool
breakfast beer (apart from water that's all we've got) and watching a
couple of Kangaroos having breakfast on the opposite bank. Although
only a few hundred kilometres from Sydney it feels gloriously remote
and we are in splendid isolation. We are having a “trial run”
before setting out on the main trip – the route of which has yet to
be decided. The main purpose is to test out our camping equipment
that we left here last time and to try out Johann's spare tent as we
sold the
wonderful Oztent we used on our last trip. However, before
we got here ….....
Our neighbours at Goulburn |
After two week we completed our work on
Steven's new house and had renovated two bedrooms. There's still a
lot to be done but our time is short and our skills are wanting – I
am no architect, builder, electrician, plumber etc. One of the last
jobs we did was to renovate the Victorian fireplace in one of the
bedrooms. We had toyed with the idea of removing what was a fairly
tatty looking affair but decided that doing it up was a better (i.e. much
easier!) option.
The almost finished fireplace - all the way from the Carron Iron Works |
One of the things that amuses and
intrigues me in life is finding connections. During 2013 much of
Sandra's spare time was spent working on The Great Tapestry of
Scotland – about 160 embroidered panels detailing the history of
Scotland from pre-historic times right through to the present. One of
the panels Sandra worked on included a depiction of the Carron Iron
Works near Falkirk in Scotland. It was a time when Scotland was the
engineering powerhouse of the Empire with machinery and steel
products being sent from Central Scotland to all corners of the
world. We dismantled Steven's fireplace and started to clear off many
decades of solid soot and rust to find that it had been manufactured
in the same Carron Iron Works that Sandra had been working on last
year. I liked that connection.
The other purpose of this trip was to
visit my cousin Cath and her husband Alan who live in Toronto near
Newcastle (the Australian versions) and our rather convoluted route
took us to a place called Wisemans Ferry. We drove slowly through the
village and decided to have a look at the ferry then go back to the
pub for a refreshment before taking the ferry across the river. We
arrived at the ferry and found ourselves in a queue of traffic
waiting to cross the river – if only we had decided to give the pub
a miss and just get on to the ferry, things might have been a little
pleasanter – however.......
Finding ourselves in a queue we didn't want to be in, we did to my mind the only sensible thing and did a U turn. We turned out of the line of stationery traffic onto the other side of the road which was completely clear as the ferry was still on the other side of the river. Then all hell broke loose with blue and red flashing lights and running policemen! Assuming it was nothing to do with me I started to drive off but a look in the mirror decided me to stop – I didn't think the Honda was going to win if it came to a car chase!
Getting out of the car I walked towards
one of New South Wales finest, looking as innocent as possible –
which wasn't difficult as, as far as I was concerned I had done
nothing wrong. I was informed in no uncertain terms that I had
committed a traffic violation and was asked to produce my driving
licence. Intrigued, I politely inquired what I had done wrong and was
informed that in Australia it was against the law to cross a double
solid white line and that, as the ferry queue was defined by a double
solid white line, I had broken the law by doing a U-turn. Well it's
an offence in Scotland to cross a double solid white line but
commonsense would normally prevail. I asked him, still politely, what
I should have done in the circumstances in which I had found myself
and could hardly believe the nonsense he came out with. Apparently
all good, law-abiding Australian citizens finding themselves in such
a predicament would have sat in their car and waited for the ferry to
arrive. When the ferry had unloaded it's vehicles the queue would
have started to move forward and, arriving at the end of the double
line, the good citizen, instead of going on to the ferry, would have
pulled to one side, let the ferry traffic which had built up behind
him pass, and only then do a U turn. I know of no Australian or any sensible person who
would have done this.
Hearing such a load of obvious drivel I
found myself in the almost impossible position of having to bite my
tongue as my jaw dropped. Experience has taught me that it is
better not to argue in these circumstances however much you feel you
are in the right. When I produced my licence he said he was glad to
see it was a British one as, if it had been a NSW one I would have
been charged – as it was I got off with a caution.
Whilst experience has taught me that it
is better not to argue in these circumstances – Sandra has yet to
learn and she decided to have a go at him. Culminating in her
demanding “Are there any other laws we should be aware of?” To
which he replied “Yeah, thousands, but I ain't got time to go
through them all with you now!” as he turned menacingly towards
another tourist who approached him with a map to ask directions.
The police in Wisemans Ferry are really
at the cutting edge of law enforcement.
Eventually crossing the ferry without
further mishap – I had a coke in the pub, just in case – all the
ferry traffic turned right, so we turned left. We were making for
Mangrove Mountain on our way to Toronto and the satnav suggested
there was a route which would get us there following minor roads.
When the tarred road gave way to dirt we realised why vehicles were
few and far between and why all the ferry traffic turned right. Being
experienced travellers with a good dose of foolhardiness thrown in,
we persevered on our rapidly deteriorating track heartened by the
fact the satnav indicated a right turn in about 10k would get us on
to the right road. At the 10k mark the “road” duly appeared – a
small forest track which, probably fortuitously, had a barrier across
it with a Road Closed sign. Closer inspection showed that it had been
closed for a couple of years. I suspect the satnav we were using
hadn't been updated recently!
Never trust a satnav! |
We were tempted to carry on to see if
we could find another way through but, as we were expected in Toronto
for afternoon tea, we decided to backtrack and continued our journey,
even negotiating a mighty river crossing, without further mishap.
The Toronto Crafters plus friend |
We decided to head from Toronto to camp
for a couple of nights in the Goulburn River National Park.
Travelling through Cessnock and Jerrys Plains we arrived at Denman
for a quick picnic lunch where we discovered that the bag containing
“a few leftovers” Cath had insisted we took, contained enough to
feed a family of four for a week! A whole chicken, a quiche, pack of
tomatoes, a whole lettuce, bottles of beer, pack of butter and a box
packed with three different types of cake. If you read this Cath –
Thank You.
Needless to say we got lost trying to
find the camp site – satnavs should not be relied upon when
navigating forests – so I had to fall back on my old-fashioned
navigation equipment – Sandra – who proved little better than her
electronic counterpart. A confident “Yes, this is the right track”
proved to be spectacularly wrong, and even a climb to the top of a
lookout to get our bearings didn't help too much. Stumbling on a map
of the park next to the lookout was our saviour and we managed the
last 30k or so and got our camp set up before dark.
Surveying the countryside looking for somewhere to camp |
Finally – a lesson learned (again) –
we put our waste bag into the car overnight to thwart nocturnal
predators, taking it out in the morning to stop the car smelling of
rotting food. We forgot about daytime predators and had to fight off
a giant goanna ransacking the place for the remains of last night's
Singapore Chicken Stir Fry.
Moving slowly after demolishing the remains of last night's dinner |
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