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Showing posts with label Kununurra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kununurra. Show all posts

Tuesday, 10 August 2010

The Gibb River Road - Part One (Kununurra, El Questro and Manning Gorge)

[No blogging for the last week or so as out of internet access.]

Kununurra Market is partially responsible for Sandra making and selling craft goods on this trip to Australia. In July 2005 we found ourselves in Kununurra and Sandra, looking for presents, went to the market to buy some locally made craft goods. Unfortunately what little that was available was of very poor quality and Sandra’s comment was that she could do better herself – and five years later she came back to prove the point. She was also pleasantly surprised to find that the market was much bigger and the range and quality of the craftwork had improved immensely. It was also the friendliest market she had been at and she managed to sell quite a lot of goods – particularly to one of the other stallholders who, I suspect, as soon as Sandra was out of the vicinity would start to replicate her stuff! After the market, at which she made a few hundred dollars, we had a relaxing afternoon back at the Lakeside Resort lounging around the pool – it can be a hard life sometimes!

On Sunday, our last full day in Kununurra, we packed in a lot of touristy things. Sandalwood, traditionally grown in India for perfume and incense, is now one of the main agricultural enterprises in the area and the Sandalwood plantations in Kununurra are some of the largest in the world. It appears that Sandalwood, in particular the oil, is a new wonder product with a multitude of medicinal and cosmetic applications – it will do everything from clearing acne to making Hindu temples smell as they do - not to mention being the base for a vast range of scents, creams, lotions, soaps, deodorants etc. A visit to the Sandalwood plantation shop allowed Sandra and Johann to re-stock their cosmetics bags, no doubt at great cost!

This was followed by a trip to the annual Kununurra Bushmans Rodeo – a three-day event at which tall, lean young men in blue jeans, cowboy boots and big hats came in from the surrounding cattle stations to display how easy it is to be thrown off a bucking bull! The attached photo shows the winner of the chariot event in which an old oil drum, with wheels attached, is harnessed to a terrified bull and let loose in the paddock. With several chariots competing simultaneously, to a set of totally unfathomable rules, it was reminiscent of the chariot race in Ben Hur but without the subtlety!

The afternoon concluded with drinks under the mango trees at the Ivanhoe CafĂ© on the outskirts of town – nae a bad day! Then we were off – to El Questro.

El Questro, which we had visited five years ago, was originally a huge cattle station but has now been developed into “one of the world’s most original tourist destinations” with accommodation ranging from 5 star to basic bush camping on the banks of the Pentecost River. Being as we are now intrepid bush campers we headed for one of the basic bush sites. Basically “basic” means no facilities and, as it was delicately put on our El Questro information sheet, if “you have to go” please do so 100 metres from a water course making sure your waste is buried at least 30 cms deep. When anyone was seen disappearing over the horizon with a spade over their shoulder we knew what they were off to do!

The Kimberley is gorge country and El Questro has some of the most impressive gorges in the area including Amalia Gorge, Emma Gorge and El Questro Gorge – all of which were duly visited. These visits did not entail a drive to a car park and a leisurely stroll into the gorge – rather a several hour clamber through a boulder-strewn landscape and usually uphill – absolutely knackering! After two days I was “gorged-out” and gave El Questro Gorge a miss.

The Kimberley in the dry season is guaranteed to be rain free, much welcomed by Sandra and I who have been dogged by the rain since landing in Sydney six months ago. However the Rain Gods have really got it in for us as, unbelievably, on our second day in El Questro an unseasonable rain began to fall and IT WAS COLD. Sandra bought me a hanging chair in Bali and it’s very pleasant to lounge in reading a book although, as the picture shows, when doing this in the Kimberley, it pays to have blankets, waterproofs and an umbrella handy!

We also had a trip to Zebedee Springs – a thermal pool with waterfalls. See the attached photo in which, for the sake of modesty, Sandra donned a swimming costume!

After three enjoyable, and not actually all that wet, days at El Questro, we set off along the Gibb River Road heading for Mornington Wilderness Camp which is run buy the Australian Wildlife Conservancy and was recommended to us by Graeme, one of the AWC Directors who we met some months ago in Queensland. However, as usual, things did not go to plan as we had a puncture and had to stop overnight at Mount Barnett Roadhouse to get it repaired. There was a hidden benefit to this as next day, as I was negotiating repairs, Sandra, Johann and Stretch got in yet another gorge which was near where we camped for the night – the Manning Gorge, apparently very beautiful. There was much excitement when another camper a 65 year old Israeli on his way back from the gorge, went missing and was lost overnight. However he was found alive and reasonably well after a night in the bush avoiding crocodiles and snakes.

Puncture repaired and so on to Mornington.

Thursday, 29 July 2010

Stitches Out at Keep River then on to the Bungle Bungles via Kununurra

Keep River National Park is one of the smaller parks and is on the border between Northern Territory and Western Australia. The entrance is a few kilometres from the Quarantine Checkpoint where, in order to keep out unwanted pests, all fruit and veg has to be declared or be confiscated. Having a healthy supply of veggies we cleared the fridges of all contraband and had an enormous veggie meal – or so we thought! Johann and Stretch sailed through quarantine but, horror of horrors, the border guards confiscated the half a lemon I was keeping in the fridge for the Gin and Tonic – which didn’t taste quite the same that night.

Keep River was where Sandra moved on to the next phase of her surgical career – stitch removal. Readers of the blog, both with medical experience, advised that ear stitches should be removed after about six days – and so, on the Sixth Day, using a pair of craft scissors dipped in Tea Tree Oil, she removed her handiwork. The operation was painless and deemed a great success – by Sandra, who reckons my ear should look quite normal when the scabs disappear. Those of you who requested a video of the procedure – tough!

Spurred on by her medical success, Sandra then moved on to something for which she was equally unqualified and inexperienced – hairdressing. This was marginally less painful than ear surgery but, aesthetically, less pleasing as the accompanying convict-like photo will testify. Lisa has nothing to fear from Sandra on the hairdressing front!

After two nights at Keep River we crossed the border into WA, a quick visit to Lake Argyle, then on to Kununurra where we set up camp just outside town at the Lakeside Resort. This is a commercial campground and we managed to get the two best spots in the camp on a small peninsular overlooking a lake teaming with wildlife – mainly birds but also goanna (see photo) and freshwater crocs. Kununurra is the hub of the East Kimberley with many travellers using it to re-supply before setting off into the remoter part of the area such as the Bungle Bungles and the Mitchell Plateau. We stocked up with groceries and alcohol, booked my car in for a service, then set off southwards for a 3-4 day trip to the Bungle Bungles before returning to Kununurra to re-supply and head for the Mitchell Plateau.

The Bungle Bungles are amazing and we stayed there for three nights. On the first day we explored Mini Palms Gorge and Echidna Chasm and on the second day we went to the famous beehive domes. The domes are weird and I imagine they would provide endless hours of fun for a geologist. They are rounded like beehives and have horizontal black and red stripes. They are taller near the plateau and get smaller as they spread over the plain – all due to erosion. However as we were leaving the area a tour group appeared on the scene and the tour leader asked his charges “Are there any geologists amongst you?” On finding out there were none he said “Good” and launched into the origins of the Bungle Bungles thus “In the Aboriginal Dreamtime a large pink elephant appeared from the North……..” I think he was pulling their communal legs!

Back to camp for a final night before heading back to Kununurra where Sandra is hoping to get a stall at the Saturday market to sell some of her craft goods.
– and then off into the wilds of the Gibb River Road, although I believe it is less wild than the last time we were there 5 years ago.