After the thunderstorm of the previous
night we decided to stay another day at Sandy Point – partly
because it was a nice place but also to let the road dry out before
attempting the steep tracks out. We had a nice lazy day of reading,
exploring and making use of the clean waters of the Snowy River where
I was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a Great White basking in the
water!
The rare Great White of the Snowy River |
This next bit's not for the squeamish!
What is the best way to dispose of your
toilet waste when camping on a site with no facilities? Sandra and I
are at odds on this one. Her theory and practice is to treat it like
you would a dog in your local park i.e. do it on the ground, pick it
up in a pooper-scooper bag and take it away when you leave. Not my
cup of tea at all. I prefer finding a site away from the camp and any
water-course, digging a hole big enough to contain the offering, then
filling the hole up afterwards. Enough of that.
Returning from putting theory into practice |
The following morning we packed up and
prepared to tackle the hills out of Sandy Point. Preliminary
examination of the “road” revealed that a lot of the road surface
had been washed away and the ruts, which were big on our way in, were
even bigger now. Before attempting the ascent however we had another
problem – the front near side tyre of the Honda was as smooth as a
baby's bottom – not much grip there I'm afraid, and we would need
as much grip as possible. The ground was so boggy that to try to jack
up the car would result in the jack going down the way rather than
the cap up. So it was down to the river to look for a suitable flat
stone (which I have kept for possible future use) Wheel changed we
were set for the hill.
Not much grip when grip was needed - and a stone to place the jack on |
We had re-arranged our loading to
ensure that all the heavy equipment was inside and light stuff on the
roof to give us a lower centre of gravity. Sandra walked up the first
hill in order to give directions and to take some hair-raising
photographs. Unfortunately she was so stressed she did neither so no
photos for the blog I'm afraid. Engaging first gear, and hoping the
automatic 4WD would kick in, we set off – no problem at all, I
don't know what all the fuss was about !!
Back onto the “main” road and less that 30 minutes into the day's journey, we hit our next problem. Sandra asked me to stop so she could take a photograph of a tree but then we found the car wouldn't start. There didn't seem to be enough juice in the battery to turn the engine even though we had been running for half an hour. It was a repeat of what had happened in the Goulburn River National Park a few weeks ago. Once again, as at Goulburn River, our salvation was a wizened old man in a beat up wreck of a car. Looking like some sort of skinny hilly-billy with a straggly beard down to his chest (Australia's full of them) he gave us a jump start and we were on our way again.
We stopped in Bairnsdale, a pleasant fairly large country town with wide streets and a good range of facilities including places to buy tyres. Wanting heavy duty tyres to cope with the rougher roads to the north and west I tried two places and was told the same thing – they don't make big, rough, tough off-road tyres for a Sydney hairdresser's Honda. I had to make do with the best quality tyres I could get – at $210 a time – plus I had the wheel alignment checked and adjusted.
Whilst the tyres were being done we had lunch in the pub and, because I had good internet access via my mobile gizmo, I sat on a park bench and posted the blog whilst Sandra did a small grocery shopping. An hour later there was no sign of her – she had gone AWOL. Thinking she might have gone back to the garage I re-traced my steps, but still no sign of her. Eventually she strolled into view surprised at my concern, her only comment being “Spotlight (a craft/material shop) had a 30% off sale” - she had bought material for a tablecloth for our camp table!
It was now getting late in the afternoon and we had no idea where we were going. After about 100k we reckoned there was a small campsite near a place called Woodside on the Woy Wron Road – and thus we found The White Womans Waterhole.
Legend - or maybe it was truth - has it
that in the 19th Century a white woman was captured by a
group of Aborigines and armed search parties scoured the countryside
looking for her. Notices were posted on trees throughout the district
hoping that she would see them and make contact with her erstwhile
rescuers. Interestingly enough these notices were in two languages –
the first part in English and the second part in what may be Gaelic.
Perhaps any reader familiar with the latter could clarify. Certainly
the name of the person leading the search suggests a Scottish
connection – Angus McGregor.
The search for the "captured" white woman - was the notice in Gaelic? |
As most people know the McGregors were a bad lot and this particular specimen went on the rampage killing many of the indigenous people, supposedly in retribution for the abducted white woman, but I suspect just to further his land acquisitions in the area. It is doubtful that the white woman ever existed – however she now has a waterhole in her honour which is hosting Sandra and I for a few days.
From our waterhole we forayed out to Port Albert, once the main port for this area of Victoria, then on to Agnes Falls – apparently the highest waterfall in Victoria – then on to Wilsons Promontory National Park. This is the most southerly point on mainland Australia and we were duly captured on camera.
Agnes Falls - Victoria's longest single drop waterfall |
For the gourmets - a bush breakfast |
We are planning a trip to Melbourne
sometime in the next week and have decided to do it like real
tourists. No more skulking around forest campsites – we are going
to book into a hotel, take an open top bus around the city, visit
lots of museums and galleries - in fact be a bit more civilised and
keep ourselves out of trouble – Perhaps!
Somehow I feel there will be adventures in Melbourne. Look forward to reading them!
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