Tichella, Karijini, Water Nymphs and A Dead Cat

Tichella was a bit of a find. Over 40k off the road across a featureless plain and following a sandy, rutted track we eventually came to a windswept, barren range of sand dunes and a wide sweep of beach. Little known and little used except by a few local fishermen Tichella had a rather desolate beauty with wonderful sea views. Unfortunately some of the local fishermen had parked themselves on the best campsite so we had to look for an alternative. Down by the creek, a tidal inlet with fantastic turquoise water full of fish and turtles, we found a flat area and prepared to set up camp. After a few minutes however I detected a smell, which I confidently declared, was rotting fish, probably left by previous camper/fishermen. Closer inspection however revealed a more gruesome source of the smell. Wild cats are considered vermin in these parts and a recently shot specimen had been left draped over a nearby bush, it was covered in flies and seething with maggots – no camping here with this for a neighbour! A burial party (me) was detailed to bury the offending object – I buried it by the creek where it would probably have been dug up by a hungry croc. However, all this was unnecessary as the fishermen packed their rods and left and we set up camp in the prime position with sea views.

Johann and Stretch were due to join us that afternoon but didn’t appear so we stayed the night in splendid isolation - sat and looked at the stars and drank lots of cheap red wine which was all that was available at the Pardoo Roadhouse – we’d run out of drink again.

The following day the “tinks flitting” duly arrived – Johann and Stretch, whilst not exactly lost, had run out of daylight on the way to join us and had decided to camp overnight in the bush rather than risk pressing on in the dark. They arrived with a load of washing which Johann had done in Broome but had not managed to get dry – this she draped over their vehicle thus totally lowering the tone of the area! (see photo)

After a couple of very pleasant days at Tichella it was time to move on, firstly to Port Hedland to refuel then on to Karijini National Park to explore yet more gorges.

The road to Port Hedland is fairly bleak and desolate and the area surrounding the town is not much better. Port Hedland exists primarily for the exportation of iron ore from massive open caste mines including those at Newman (the largest in the world) and Tom Price. A regular stream of ore trains, some over 3k long, and endless road trains ensure that the ships at Port Hedland are loaded with iron ore to be shipped off, primarily, to China where it is converted into consumer goods and sent back to Australia.

Port Hedland also hosts the largest mountain of salt I have ever seen – probably enough to service every Fish and Chip shop in the world several times over. It is operated by Rio Tinto Salt and ranks as a local tourist attraction with a dedicated viewing and photograph platform complete with free gas barbeques and picnic area.

Our re-provisioning and salt-viewing had put us behind schedule for meeting Johann and Stretch at Karijini however, with a departure time of 3.30 and with my faithful navigator estimating the distance at 220k, I reckoned that we could make it by 5.30 giving us 30min to set up camp before darkness fell at 6pm. However, I reckoned without my faithful navigator having an off day - with darkness falling she discovered that it wasn’t 220k but actually 350k!! Having no idea about the roads ahead we decided to do the same as Johann and Stretch a few nights earlier and set up camp for the night. We pulled into an isolated roadhouse at a place called Munjina for one of the most disturbed nights of camping yet. A massive generator throbbed away all night, no doubt powering the mega watt lights which shone down on us all night whilst every 15 minutes or so enormous road trains thundered by – not relaxing!!

Then on to Karijini for a couple of days gorging.

The country around Dales Gorge, in Karijini was dry and red with little growing other than stunted bushes and spinifex grass, however a steep climb down a cliff face took you to another world of water and lush vegetation. A rough path followed a stream which eventually arrived at Fern Pool – an oasis of clear blue water fed by two waterfalls – ideal for swimming. At this point I had a mystical experience as two water nymphs appeared alluringly before me although, on studying the quickly taken photograph, the similarity to Johann and Sandra is astounding! As was the photo of a water nymph cavorting in one of the waterfalls!!

The next day we went to the strangely named Weano Gorge which was tackled heroically by Sandra, Johann and Stretch as I had a rest day after my exertions in Dales Gorge. Weano was, apparently, the most spectacular gorge yet with steep sides, vertical ladders and lots of water to wade through - and fall into! On two occasions Sandra was asked if needed a hand and, upon refusing help, she immediately plunged into the water below! Perhaps the iconic photograph of the day however was that of Johann making her way up a vertical cliff face holding on to a rail with one hand – she didn’t fall – that time!!

Tomorrow, Sunday 22 August, is most significant being my 60th birthday and we are heading a couple of hundred k’s south to a place near Newman called Kalgan Pool to celebrate the occasion in style. Hopefully I’ll pick up internet access in Newman and get this blog posted.