Arkaroola

Final sunset at Wilpena

After a number of night in the Flinders Ranges National Park we eventually set off for Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary a couple of hundred kilometres to the north – although we took a rather circuitous route. First stop was the pub at Parachina – there is only a pub at Parachina! - but for once our intentions were no alcoholic. We had discovered that there was internet access so, with all four of us using my 4G Telstra Mobile Hotspot on iPads and iPhones, were able to connect with the outside world. Unfortunately the Parachina pub had stopped selling petrol so next port of call was Angorichina Village which didn't have a pub but did sell fuel – then on to the very small but welcoming town of Blinman which served us egg and bacon rolls for brunch.

They burn witches in Blinman don't they?

In Blinman, beside the pub, we came across a large number of strange metal circles each with a deposit of charred wood and ash. Theories as to their purpose were rife with satanic rites coupled with burning young maidens proving to be well wide of the mark – they were the ovens for the annual Blinman Bake Off. I am still nene the wiser!

Aboriginal Rock Art at Chambers Gorge - a bit under-whelming!

Realising we weren't going to make Arkaroola that night we set up camp at Mount Chambers. Whilst there was significant Aboriginal rock art much in evidence (I was under-whelmed yet again) the tale of the quick overnight stop was about one of the Australian nasties one doesn't hear so much about. The campsite was very busy, not just because it was free, but an outing of naturalists from Adelaide had taken up residence for the weekend (my initial hopes were dashed when I discovered they weren't naturists!) Just about every decent flat space was taken except a nice, green, shady place under some mature trees which we grabbed – bad move. After getting the tent set up in record time we disappeared inside where, within minutes we were yelping with pain – we had re-discovered the dreaded Bindis. Small, round plant seeds covered with agonisingly sharp spikes which were agong to stand on and were even able to pierce the floor of the tent, Afraid that ou inflatable beds woud be punctured we placed whatever protection we could find under the beds. The next morning, punctured and wiser, we packed up and got on the road asap. Johann and Stretch, in their fancy trailer tent, were unaffected.

The old homestead at Balcanoona

Next stop was Balcanoona, an old homestead which now served as the HQ for the Vulkathunha Gammon Ragnes National Park. An interesting self guided tour round the property illustrated life an old sheep station whre the shearing shed, horse yard and homestead were much as they had been when the station was in its heyday.

The horse yard at Balcanoona

Arkaroola is a privately owned property established by an eminent Australian geologist Reg Sprigg and his Scottish wife Grizelda – and is now run by his son an daughter. We stayed in a bush camping site away from the caravan brigade. Highlight of our stay was a 5 hour trip in a 4WD vehicle to some of the remote parts of the property over what could only be described as challenging tracks – most of a fairly vertical nature. I would loved to have done the drive but instead enjoyed the driving display put on by our guide Peter – who also doubled as the entertainments officer as he recited famous Australian bush poetry, including The Man From Snowy River, as he negotiated parts of the track which he described as “a bit ordinary”. Judging by the shrieks of some of the passengers a change of underwear would have been required at the end of the trip!

Peter our driver and bush raconteur

Arkaroola Viewpoint

As well as fabulous views, terrifying ascents and descents we had the privilege of viewing a wedge-tailed eagle being mobbed by s couple of crows – not a common sight apparently.



Lake Frome

Today, our final day in the area, we went to Lake Frome a salt lake about 50k away which we had seen from a distance on our mountain trek of yesterday. A vast, flat, white expanse disappeared into the heat haze as we had a picnic lunch on the shoe.

Lake Frome

Our final trip of the day was to the Arkaroola Waterhole to see the rock wallabies coming down for their evening drink – we didn't see a single one! However we managed to get a few photos on the way back to camp – Johann reckons that everything is so green they don't need to drink as they get all they need from the vegetation.

"Rock Wallabies? I see no Rock Wallabies!"

"Oh, there they are!"

Tomorrow we head off to Copley to visit a garage – Stretch needs a compressor for his tyres (Johann drove over his other one which now doesn't work} and the Honda is still misbehaving in the starting department and I will try to track down a new battery.