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Tuesday 12 October 2010

A Hut, Whales, Dolphins, Orchids and no Flies on Sandra

Well we have a new first – although some may call it a new low – we have been living in a hut!

After the tree climbing exploits at Pemberton we set off for Walpole – gateway to the Walpole Wilderness – which turned out to be yet another pleasant seaside town. After a quick look around, and, as usual, not being attracted to the commercial campsites in the area, we went to look for Crystal Springs, a campsite in one of the many National Parks around Walpole. Not too enamoured by what we found, and with time getting short, we drove into the forest up a 4WD track looking for somewhere, anywhere, to pitch our tent. After 5k down the track a river blocked our path and, in the fading light, I didn’t want to risk driving across particularly as there was a sign advising people that the crossing was dangerous.

It’s amazing how, at times like these, things seem to work out for the best. Whilst contemplating the gathering gloom, and probably a night in the vehicle, we noticed a hut. Probably built for forestry workers, it had a single room about 5m by 4m, a closing door and a watertight roof – our prayers had been answered, and we didn’t even have to pitch the tent. Setting up beds, tables and chairs we made ourselves at home. The spot was idyllic – set deep in the forest and next to a beautiful (now that I didn’t have to cross it!) river - we couldn’t have asked for anything more – except possibly a pub. We stayed for two nights and in all that time saw not a soul. We were glad of the hut as, when it was time to move on, the rain arrived and it’s not much fun packing up a wet tent.

Our next port of call was to have been Albany which would see us just about turning the corner in the far south west of Australia and start the long trek along the south coast towards Sydney. Now I am sure Albany is a great wee town with a lot going for it – however, when you arrive in the pouring rain on a Sunday afternoon, not a lot of the attractions are obvious. Briefly contemplating one of the commercial campsites, where we would still have to put up the tent in the rain and sit around for the rest of a wet Sunday, we decided on a bold course of action – we would outrun the rain and find a campsite on the way. And thus we found ourselves at the Fitzgerald River National Park – and what a good move that was, although it didn’t seem so at the time.

The campsite at Point Ann is nearly 70k off the main highway along a good dirt road. Although we had outrun the rain (temporarily at least) it had done it’s damage and the beds, mattresses and some of the bedclothes which were on the roof rack were a bit on the damp side and this, coupled with the rain catching up with us, the wind rising and the temperatures falling made for one of our less comfortable nights. In fact it was reminiscent of our last ever camping trip, to North Wales when Jon and Steven were very young, after which Sandra made a vow never to go camping again.

However the following day made up for the discomfort of the night when both the sea and the land put on a magnificent display for us. We were camped just a few metres from a small bay with white sand and incredibly blue water and were walking along the beach the next morning when we had the argument. Armed with my trusty binoculars I announced that I could see a whale a short distance from the beach - however Sandra, armed with her new super-zoom camera with a 32 x Optical Zoom, declared it wasn’t a whale but dolphins - we were both right. A female Southern Right Whale and her calf were lying about 100 metres off the beach whilst around them about 15-20 Bottlenosed Dolphins were frolicking in the waves. I have heard of dolphins surfing before but had never seen it – they wait for a wave and then, just like a human surfer, “catch” the wave and “surf” towards the shore. Amazing scenes – particularly with the mother whale getting into the action by waving her enormous flippers at us.

Further along the beach a seal (or sealion?) started to perform for us, catching a fish then throwing it up in air, catching it, then repeating the whole performance.

In the afternoon Sandra went in to raptures over the wildflowers. A short foray into the bush and she came back claiming another twenty or so new ones – she now has several flower photos – she’s going to have a bit of sorting out when she gets home.

Finally, one of the presents Sandra was given when she left Bield was given a bit of an airing today (see last photo) All of her ex-colleagues who claimed “there were no flies on Sandra” have been proved wrong!

1 comment:

  1. You certainly seem to be attracting the rain on your travels and poor Sandra reduced to living in a hut. Will Jon be clearing out the sheds at Eskbank ready for your return?

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