Broome, Three Beautiful Beaches and an Eviction

Broome is a holiday town with a huge tourist population – most of whom seemed to have been crammed in to the Cable Beach Caravan Park. Having heard on the travellers grapevine that accommodation in Broome could be hard to find, whilst I went in search of two new tyres for the Nissan, Johann started phoning around the local camp sites. The third one she tried said they could squeeze us in but only if we were able to get round there within thirty minutes to pay for the site – which cost an astronomical $78 for one night. After mainly bush camping, with the odd commercial site thrown in, mainly for the use of a washing machine, I think we were all a bit overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the place with its 450 numbered and strictly regimented sites. With many people, mainly Victorians avoiding the “cold” southern winter, staying there for up to three months at a time it was more of a village where every one seemed to know each other than a campsite. And the lengths people went to in order to create a home from home were amazing.

Of course I put my foot into things – quite literally. Our next door neighbours had erected a gazebo next to their caravan complete with fancy lights and a moving neon sign showing a bottle of red wine being poured and the word “Bar”. The ground around this bar area, and indeed all over the campsite, was covered with gravel and the man next door had spent some considerable time out with a rake to ensure all the leaves were removed before raking the gravel into patterns thus creating a Japanese garden effect. Unfortunately I didn’t spot this until too late and had walked across his “garden” leaving an unwelcome set of footprints! However, a quick rake and all was well again.

That evening we went out for a meal with an old friend of Johann and Stretch who lives in Broome - an ex-millionaire, ex-pat Brit with three ex-wives with the enviable nickname “Kamikaze”. We all piled into Kamikaze’s ancient Range Rover to travel several miles to the restaurant, Broome is a very spread out place – it wasn’t until after a very acceptable meal and several bottles of wine that the problems started. The police were out in force and it was generally agreed that Kamikaze, despite his nickname, shouldn’t risk driving us back to camp as his alcohol level was somewhat raised – no problem, we’ll get a taxi back. Well trying to find a taxi in a strange town was not easy and walking the streets with a full bladder led to the inevitable search for a public loo. With none to be found a trip to Macdonalds seemed the easy answer but, just as we reached the door, we were spotted and the staff managed to get the door locked before we crossed the threshold – it was ten seconds past nine, things close early in Broome! Sandra made use of a convenient hedge (unfortunately next to the Macdonalds Drive Thru Hatch which was still open) whilst I managed to commandeer a taxi meant for another customer. And that was our only night out in Broome.

Thus followed stays on three beautiful beaches – Gambanan, Whale Song and Barn Hill. Gambanan is an Aboriginal community and the campsite was a bit of a disappointment – very dusty with little shade. However, about 1k down a track we discovered Squeaky Beach – so called because the white sand is so pure and fine it squeaks when you walk on it. We camped right next to the beach; caught (and ate) fish when taken out in a boat by a fellow camper called Cameron; launched the inflatables for Sandra, Johann and a bunch of Aboriginal kids to play on – it was almost too good to be true. And so it proved!! The Aboriginal owners of the land found us and we were told, politely but firmly, that we were trespassing – we were evicted!

And so on to the most evocatively named place yet – Whale Song. Situated on the Dampier Peninsular about 175k north of Broome overlooking the spectacular Pender Bay, Whale Song is the site of the Humpback Whale Nursery and Resting Grounds. The campsite is down a very sandy 30k dirt road and is very small with only about half a dozen sites. We parked ourselves at the edge of a small cliff with fantastic sea views. Surprisingly, and somewhat incongruously, the site had a small café serving coffee, homemade cakes and gourmet pizzas.

The highlight for me was the sculpted outdoor shower, the entrance to which had a sign saying “In Use” on one side and “Free” on the other. When you went in or out you turned the sign to the appropriate side. Whilst luxuriating in the outside shower getting rid of the sand after an afternoon on the beach, and with the sign turned to “In Use”, I noticed a woman draped in a towel making her way through the bush towards me. I had a feeling she wouldn’t bother to read the sign and this proved to be the case. As she entered the shower area, totally oblivious to the finely honed and totally naked male body already in residence, she threw off the towel revealing all! After a screaming retreat, Droopy Dora, as I immediately nicknamed her, studiously ignored me for the rest of our brief stay!

Whale Song is where we parted company with Johann and Stretch as they were staying on for another day then going back to Broome to stay with Kamikaze - but we will be meeting up again further south hopefully in time for my 60th birthday on 22nd August.

After re-provisioning in Broome, Sandra and I are now at Barn Hill, about 120k south of Broome, camping on a near perfect sweep of beach and planning the next stage of the trip. We now have a deadline to be in Perth as we have booked flights back to Sydney on 7th September as Sandra, sentimental woman that she is, wants to be around to support Steven and Ana when they produce our first grand-daughter on or about the 11th.

Finally, we have seen many different types of caravans, camping trailers and tents on our travels but none as amazing as the monstrosity pictured at Barn Hill. It is, in effect a bus conversion, but new - not an ex-corporation bus as many of these things appear to be. Behind the bus is a double-decked trailer, in the lower level of which is a 4WD and two motor bikes, whilst the top level boasts a large boat. The bus is a mobile communications centre judging by the large satellite dish and aerials sprouting from the top. However the piece de resistance for me was the external staircase at the back of the bus leading up to a fenced-in decked area with seating and a parasol! Absolutely amazing!!