Tuesday 7 April and we are finally on our way. Heading north we stopped briefly at Forster to pick up supplies then set out for the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Initally on the Pacific Highway we bypassed Taree and Port Macquarie then turned inland on the Oxley Highway – needless to say, and in true Douglas Walkabout fashion, we did not get to our intended destination. There are 790 National Parks in New South Wales and, having shelled out $65 for an annual pass, Sandra was leaving no National Park uncaptured! We diverted to Werrikimbe National Park – yet another World Heritage listed park with the usual array of warm temperate, cool temperate and sub-tropical rainforests. It was also “ideal for those wishing to get away from the crowds” which, after our experiences at Yagon the previous two nights. was quite an attraction.
After a 25 k drive in over the usual dirt roads we arrived at Mooraback, an old cattle station now reverted to nature, and found the best campsite we have had so far on the trip – clean, grassy with a firepit and a handy supply of firewood. As we only planned to stay for one night we set up a very minimal camp so we could get away early the next morning.
Camp established, we went on a walk to look for one of Australia’s reclusive creatures – the almost mythical Duck-billed Platypus – which we heard could sometimes be seen in the area. After an hour walk through the bush we found what looked a likely spot and waited. It was dusk, apparently a good time to see them, and we were not disappointed. We had not expected to see one but there they were and there was just enough light to get some reasonable photographs.
Back at camp we cooked a meal on a real wood fire, then off to bed for what proved to be one of the coldest nights of our lives! Equipped for warm tropic nights we had under-estimated the night time temperatures at over 4000 feet. The next morning, after scraping the frost from the tent (OK perhaps it wasn’t THAT cold) we set off for the town of Walcha stopping to take in a couple of dramatic waterfalls on the way – Tia Falls and Apsley Falls.
Although known as New England this part of the country obviously has had a strong Scottish
influence judging by the names of places and cattle stations along the way including Talisker, Armidale and more Glens and Invers than you could shake a cromach at! We stopped at Armidale a fairly large and seemingly prosperous town (in fact it would probably call itself a city as it has two cathedrals, one Anglican and one Catholic) for Sandra to make what she saw as an essential purchase – a pair of yellow flannelette pyjamas - no more freezing nights for her!
From Armidale we decided to turn east and head for Dorrigo National Park – a place we had been to about 14 years ago. But first we needed another campsite and ended up at a place in the wilds called Cathedral Rock – still at almost 4000 feet it was set to be another chilly night. Again we were pretty isolated with no other campers to be seen – but we were not alone!
One of the leaving presents Sandra received from her colleagues at Bield was a head torch which, in addition to the usual white light, could also project a red beam. As night fell the red beam could pick out many lights in the bush surrounding us – eyes watching us. Many were
kangaroos, however we were about to have yet another clash with our old adversaries – the possums. But these were not the elusive creatures of previous encounters as they launched full frontal attacks. We had food and they were out to get it. Normally possums are thieves in the night, raiding rubbish bags looking for food – but these had lost their fear of humans and came to within two feet trying to get food – but this time I had a camera. As you can see from the photo, they are scary, vicious looking creatures although this time we survived unscathed.
Then off to Dorrigo. Whilst beautiful - with wonderful views, an aerial skywalk etc it has become very “sanitised” since we were last there. The paths have been covered with tarmac, the visitor centre extended to include a theatre and exhibition space, proper toilets etc. Still, a satisfactory experience and we had a good picnic.
Which brings me up-to-date. We are in a small town called Belligen visiting an old friend called Erika who very kindly offered us a bed. But, as we are campers, we turned her down and set up camp in her garden – actually it was because the tent was a bit damp and I wanted it to dry out (fat chance with the drought-busters arriving – it rained last night – again!)
Once again we have come across another of life’s little co-incidences. You may recall when we
were in Sydney I received an e-mail from my cousin Mary in Canada telling me that her niece Kerri will be arriving in Sydney and indeed we met up with her. Mary, and her sister Jean, attended Kilgraston – a boarding school in Scotland as their parents lived in South America. It transpired that our hostess Erika also went to Kilgraston at about the same time. As we were onto our ?th bottle of wine we thought it would be a good idea to take a photo of Erika and send it to Mary to see if it jogged the memory – it did – they were at school together. Small world.
PS Erika owns Koompartoo Retreat in Bellingen – “Exquisite Rainforest Chalets” – anyone interested should have a look at her website http://www.koompartoo.com.au/ First class and thoroughly recommended.
After a 25 k drive in over the usual dirt roads we arrived at Mooraback, an old cattle station now reverted to nature, and found the best campsite we have had so far on the trip – clean, grassy with a firepit and a handy supply of firewood. As we only planned to stay for one night we set up a very minimal camp so we could get away early the next morning.
Camp established, we went on a walk to look for one of Australia’s reclusive creatures – the almost mythical Duck-billed Platypus – which we heard could sometimes be seen in the area. After an hour walk through the bush we found what looked a likely spot and waited. It was dusk, apparently a good time to see them, and we were not disappointed. We had not expected to see one but there they were and there was just enough light to get some reasonable photographs.
Back at camp we cooked a meal on a real wood fire, then off to bed for what proved to be one of the coldest nights of our lives! Equipped for warm tropic nights we had under-estimated the night time temperatures at over 4000 feet. The next morning, after scraping the frost from the tent (OK perhaps it wasn’t THAT cold) we set off for the town of Walcha stopping to take in a couple of dramatic waterfalls on the way – Tia Falls and Apsley Falls.Although known as New England this part of the country obviously has had a strong Scottish
influence judging by the names of places and cattle stations along the way including Talisker, Armidale and more Glens and Invers than you could shake a cromach at! We stopped at Armidale a fairly large and seemingly prosperous town (in fact it would probably call itself a city as it has two cathedrals, one Anglican and one Catholic) for Sandra to make what she saw as an essential purchase – a pair of yellow flannelette pyjamas - no more freezing nights for her!From Armidale we decided to turn east and head for Dorrigo National Park – a place we had been to about 14 years ago. But first we needed another campsite and ended up at a place in the wilds called Cathedral Rock – still at almost 4000 feet it was set to be another chilly night. Again we were pretty isolated with no other campers to be seen – but we were not alone!
One of the leaving presents Sandra received from her colleagues at Bield was a head torch which, in addition to the usual white light, could also project a red beam. As night fell the red beam could pick out many lights in the bush surrounding us – eyes watching us. Many were
kangaroos, however we were about to have yet another clash with our old adversaries – the possums. But these were not the elusive creatures of previous encounters as they launched full frontal attacks. We had food and they were out to get it. Normally possums are thieves in the night, raiding rubbish bags looking for food – but these had lost their fear of humans and came to within two feet trying to get food – but this time I had a camera. As you can see from the photo, they are scary, vicious looking creatures although this time we survived unscathed.Then off to Dorrigo. Whilst beautiful - with wonderful views, an aerial skywalk etc it has become very “sanitised” since we were last there. The paths have been covered with tarmac, the visitor centre extended to include a theatre and exhibition space, proper toilets etc. Still, a satisfactory experience and we had a good picnic.
Which brings me up-to-date. We are in a small town called Belligen visiting an old friend called Erika who very kindly offered us a bed. But, as we are campers, we turned her down and set up camp in her garden – actually it was because the tent was a bit damp and I wanted it to dry out (fat chance with the drought-busters arriving – it rained last night – again!)
Once again we have come across another of life’s little co-incidences. You may recall when we
were in Sydney I received an e-mail from my cousin Mary in Canada telling me that her niece Kerri will be arriving in Sydney and indeed we met up with her. Mary, and her sister Jean, attended Kilgraston – a boarding school in Scotland as their parents lived in South America. It transpired that our hostess Erika also went to Kilgraston at about the same time. As we were onto our ?th bottle of wine we thought it would be a good idea to take a photo of Erika and send it to Mary to see if it jogged the memory – it did – they were at school together. Small world.PS Erika owns Koompartoo Retreat in Bellingen – “Exquisite Rainforest Chalets” – anyone interested should have a look at her website http://www.koompartoo.com.au/ First class and thoroughly recommended.
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