A month, or perhaps even more, since I
last managed to post a blog – where has the time gone? Fearing
disaster, blog followers from all over the world have inundated me with blog
comments and emails seeking reassurance that we haven't fallen foul
to any of the natural disasters which beset unwary travellers in
Australia. I am happy to announce that, apart from a severe case of
renovators exhaustion, Sandra and I have survived our trip around
Australia and are now safely back in Sydney.
My last post saw us leaving the old
schoolhouse at Lynch's Creek. On our travels, as well as this blog,
we record our progress through the country on a map, with Sandra
carefully marking our route in black ink. Anyone viewing the map
covering the Brisbane to Sydney section would be forgiven for
thinking that it had been completed by a drunken spider leaving a
random trail of inky footprints weaving in and out between coast
and hinterland. We had decided to give the coast a miss and headed
off inland where I found, and not for the first time, that our route
had been engineered to coincide with a craft shop – this time at a
place called Stokers Siding. As (good) luck would have it, the craft
shop had been rather over-hyped and thankfully Sandra found little to
whet her interest and we quickly moved on – but inexplicably
somehow set off back to the coast heading for Byron Bay.
It was whilst in Byron Bay some 15
years ago we got the news that Rhoda, our Rhodesian Ridgeback bitch,
had an inoperable brain tumour. Our next dog, another Ridgeback
but this time a big male, was given the name Byron – so we felt
some affinity towards Byron Bay. However, we never got there. Finding
ourselves in a queue of traffic moving at snail-like pace on the outskirts of the
town we finally lost patience and said “Bugger Byron”, did a
U-turn and headed back inland again. Eventually, with light fading
and very little sign of a decent campsite for the night, we ended up
at little more than a roadside stop at a place called Crooked Creek.
Camping was pretty basic with no
facilities, although perhaps that was not quite the case, there was a
toilet. If you refer back to my last posting there is a photograph of
the “thunderbox” toilet which Sandra refused to use – in
retrospect this was pure luxury. The Crooked Creek toilet was of
similar construction and had once been a “longdrop” toilet with
several feet between the seat and the final resting place of
deposits. However, decades of use and no maintenance had seen the
“longdrop” metamorphose into initially a “shortdrop” and
finally into a “hardly any drop at all drop”.
|
Not for the faint of heart |
An extremely strong
stomach and the ability to hold ones breath for the duration were
essential toileting skills for this type of loo – once again Sandra
was unable to come up to scratch and decided to hold on for more
cultivated facilities.
A quick visit to Tenterfield to pick up
directions (and cultivated facilities) then saw us heading for yet another “Scottish” town
called Glen Innes – stopping on the way to visit Bald Rock – “the
biggest single lump of granite in the southern hemisphere” and to
photograph a Dalek which just happened to be standing by the roadside
– strange place Australia! (For the full Dalek story Google - DWater dalek
|
Two big lumps of granite at Bald Rock |
|
Yet another granite lump |
|
Strange what you bump into in the outback |
Glen Innes purported to be a Scottish,
or perhaps Celtic, town and as such had a “genuine” crofters
cottage tea room standing next to a stone circle allegedly based on
either the Standing Stones of Callanish in Lewis or possibly the Ring
of Brodgar in Orkney, no-one seemed to be quite sure which.
|
Crofters Cottage in Glen Innes |
|
The Standing Stone Circle |
Whilst nearby a
large single stone with a sword embedded in it (presumably Excalibur)
defeated the combined Douglas efforts to release the sword and thus
proving worthy of ruling the kingdom – so we left to scour the
streets looking for the many street signs in Gaelic – yet another
unsuccessful venture.
|
Personally I don't think she was really trying! |
That night was spent once again in splendid
isolation camping at the waters edge at Copeton Waters.
|
Knocking up a feast whilst knocking back a cold one |
As it is now a few weeks ago, trying to
remember our exact route is difficult but Sandra, who claims that her
dementia is less advanced than my own, confidently says we visited
somewhere called Bundara before stopping at Tamworth for a couple of
new tyres and of course to be photographed beside the giant golden
guitar. Tamworth is famous for its country music festival, epitomised
by the giant guitar symbolically sited equidistant between McDonalds
and the Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet and a photocall at its base is
a Tamworth Rite of Passage for all tourists.
|
The Tamworth Big Guitar - between Maccas and KFC |
With only a few days before were due
back in Sydney we were looking for a nice restful place to camp
before hitting the big city – and so ended up in Nundle, where
coincidentally there was a woollen mill which was on Sandra's to do
list. Camping by a waterhole half way up a mountain and with plenty
of birdlife in evidence it should have been an ideal place – it
wasn't. At night-time the temperature dropped to not much above
freezing and I refused to stay for another night. Packing up we
decided to head for Dunns Swamp a popular camping place just a few
hours from Sydney which we had been to years before.
The fact that it was popular - and it was
the end of the school holidays - and it was a holiday long weekend
should have alerted us to the problem of Dunns Swamp – it was
packed out. With small boys tearing round on bikes being chased by small girls pushing dolls
prams it was far too dangerous for the likes of us and, despite darkness falling, we headed for
the small, quiet and attractive village of Rylestone where we
squeezed into a corner of the local caravan park and had a
surprisingly enjoyable couple of days.
We camped next to the second tee on the
local golf course but were not disturbed by golfers as, in our two
days in residence, not a golfer was to be seen, only a few dog
walkers.
|
A green at Rylestone Golf Course |
One interesting feature of the course was the greens were
made of a gravelly sand and, instead of flags to mark the hole, fine
toothed rakes were used with golfers expected to smooth out the
putting surface after completing the hole. I'm not sure how they
handled the bunkers!
|
Sandra disappearing into Fern Gully |
An interesting outing to Fern Gully followed by
a very acceptable meal in the local pub just about completed our stay
in Rylestone and indeed our trip around Australia. Sydney was to be
our next stop where we had a bit of house renovation lined up which
will probably keep us occupied for a few weeks.
Steven our son bought a house in
Marrickville one of the inner suburbs of Sydney. Being near to the
city centre allows him an easy commute to and from work but the
downside is, being so near the centre the property prices are sky
high and you don't really get a lot for your money – the house
needs a lot done to it. When we arrived in Australia, Sandra and I
spent a week or two decorating a couple of bedrooms and offered to
replace the kitchen when we got back from our trip. The last few
weeks have been spent on this project – more of which anon.